I worked as a costume assistant for costume designer Amy Lewis on “The Book of Dust” at the Bute Theatre. One of the assigned tasks was to create a blue corset for one of the main characters, Alice. I received the design along with a reference image and proceeded to take the actor’s measurements, drafting my own pattern. To ensure proper fit and pattern accuracy, I first created a toile.

I opted to craft the corset from dyed blue calico fabric due to its substantial weight and matte finish, avoiding any unwanted shine. Conducting dye samples allowed me to attain the ideal shade of blue for the garment to stay true to the original design.

Mindful of Alice’s numerous fight scenes. It was imperative that the corset did not restrict her movements in any way, so I conducted several fittings, experimenting with different amounts of boning. Ultimately, I struck a balance, ensuring it provided structure without hindering flexibility.

While the corset was lightly boned, I added numerous boning channels with contrasting mustard yellow stitching to create the illusion of a heavily boned corset. Additionally, I incorporated gussets into the pattern and crafted my own piping trim using bias-cut dyed calico. Furthermore, I employed a technique involving cording panels sewn into the corset, enhancing its texture and structural integrity while allowing for greater flexibility.

To add a finishing touch, I applied mustard yellow embroidery thread in a technique known as corset flossing. Although historically used to strengthen boning channels, in this instance, it served purely as decoration, enhancing the overall aesthetic.

I was pleased with the outcome of this project. The corset was sturdy, well-made, and complemented the character’s portrayal on stage. As an enthusiast of corset making, I relished the opportunity to explore different techniques and bring Amy’s design to life.